Get to Know Chef Wolf
Culinary contributor Amy Langrehr sat down with Chef Wolf to chat about food, family and what’s great about Baltimore.
Was food a big part of your upbringing? Did you cook when you were a kid?
CW: I didn’t really cook that much as a kid. My mother was a great home cook and I always helped a lot, making cookies, helping with dishes, chores. I ate really well as a kid, being surrounded by great cooks in my family. My mom cooked with the seasons without really thinking about it, it’s just the way it was. My great-grandparents and great-uncles had a butcher’s shop on the family property, so my dad ate well as a kid, too. He ended up working in food - for Ponderosa and Hardee’s - and ate in great restaurants all over the country when he would travel on business. He was the first person to import lamb from New Zealand into the United States. We lived in Charleston while I was in culinary school and I’d come home and sometimes we would test different cuts of meat and figure out what to sell to large companies. I was 21 and that was really fun to work with my dad like that. Great training, right?
Lots of kids get to choose the meal on their birthday – anything they want…to a point, I suppose. What would be your “birthday meal” now? What did you ask for when you were a kid?
CW: We always had whoopie pie cakes - five layers of chocolate cake with whoopie pie filling. Always. And as I got older, I wanted lobster. Also, really good homemade mac ‘n cheese made with great pasta, cream and cheeses. A classic for my family was this dish that’s chicken wrapped in dried beef with mushroom sauce. For my birthday now? I’d love to go back and eat at Les Pres d’Eugenie Michel Guerard, just outside Bordeaux. Michel Guerard is my favorite chef. I don’t usually name someone as my most favorite but really, he is. A contemporary of (Paul) Bocuse, he’s a brilliant man and has cooked his entire life. He is also very kind and wonderful. My father gave me his cookbook when I was 17 or 18 and I have admired him since then. That was the first cookbook I was ever given.
Do you have a mentor? Any chefs who really helped you find your way?
CW: Yes, Marcello Vasquez, he’s Argentine and was a chef in Charleston where I did my externship during school. The restaurant was Morton’s at the Vendue Inn. (note: not the Morton’s steak house. Rather, Morton Needle owned the inn.) After I graduated, he hired me as his sous there. His approach to food and service was very French. His wife Penny worked with him and wore full tails every single night during service. His respect for food and for the people who worked for him was extraordinary. Everything was to be done perfectly. His palette, his ability – they shaped me. My parents would occasionally host parties for the staff, and he became very close with my family. After Hurricane Hugo, he moved the restaurant to Knoxville from Charleston and at the new restaurant, I took on my first Executive Chef position at the age of 25.
How do you balance home and work? Is it even possible?
CW: My life is my work.
Are there any celebrity chefs you admire? Any you'd like to work with?
CW: Michel Guerard, Paul Bocuse, and Andre Soltner. I’d love to go back to Guy Julien’s restaurant. I’d love to see how he works, he’s a very warm and generous chef. It would be a lot of fun to work in his kitchen but I should probably just eat the truffles! He gets them in Mondragon in the Southern Rhone Valley. He’s got an incredible wine cellar, absolutely incredible.
What do you like about Baltimore?
CW: Well, I love Baltimore. We are surrounded by amazing farmland and waterways and great people working them to bring us seafood, vegetables, livestock and more. We are so lucky to be here.
What do you love about food?
CW: I love everything about food. Cooking for me? I love soups and sauces, the ritual of making risotto, the patience. Stock on the back of the stove. Pasta dough in your hands. Making bread. As a chef, I have the greatest pleasure of putting whatever I want on the menu - like local rabbit and buffalo, for example - and people will come in will eat it. Happily. For me, that’s joy.
What do you want people to know about Baltimore?
CW: We are very diverse; our ethnic communities have influenced the city for hundreds of years. Also, that we have really amazing local farmers and watermen. So many great products here, so much more than crabs. There’s rockfish and oysters and buffalo. There are so many people doing great work here and there are tons of culinary opportunities. Chefs are doing really amazing things. We have so many creative people here - more and more brewers, winemakers, distillers now, too. Innovation is everywhere here. And many restaurants in Baltimore have been open a very long time like The Prime Rib, Tio Pepe’s and more. It’s a wonderful place.
OK, obligatory question – when you cook at home, what do you like to make? Do you have a favorite “go to” meal at home?
CW: I love making stock on Sundays. Braised short ribs, coq au vin, risotto, slow cooked lamb with beans. I really love Persian food. My brother-in-law is from Iran and my nephew is Indian. I love working with those flavors, too.